on the perimeter of plaza de colon, in old san juan, the smell of barbeque pork brought us to a kiosk where sandwiches were sold for $6.50. it was advertised as a traditional puerto rican bbq pork sandwich sprinkled with pork rinds. our immediate reaction was "no way"....not with pork rinds! but then the vendor suggested that he could crumble just a few, just to maintain its authenticity, and we decided to try it (when in rome.....)
the sandwich was large and very tasty. the pork rinds added a nice texture to the meat, and we were pleased with our lunch.
after we finished, we chatted with the young man about the santos and folk art he had displayed on the walls of the kiosk. his mother is an artist, well known according to a woman who had also stopped to say hello. among the santos there was a cup filled with cigars; one in particular interested me with its two-toned striped wrapping. we were pointed in the direction of our hotel, and told that the "cigar man" was just down the street.
at the corner, we found rafael ramos carmona, better known as
tabacalera ramos. there were numerous cases filled with cigars of many sizes. i asked if i might take his photo, and he immediately, but without even a nod, began to roll a cigar....
spreading the tobacco leaf flat and used his knife to cut it to the proper size for rolling. i was impressed with his well manicured hands, his straw hat, his well trimmed beard, and especially with the long ash that hung from the stogie he was smoking. (it was mesmerizing, wondering if and when it would fall)
